Saturday, September 14, 2013

A PROPER COMPLEMENT IS ALWAYS IN SEASON…


Spats were originally designed to keep dirt and mud out of a traveling gentleman's laced-up shoes while he rode his horse.


Seasonal transition is a difficult time for determining which garments to wear.  The best approach at those times of the year is to just take each day and night as they come.  As long as the weather is warm it is appropriate to wear the warm season’s linen and cotton clothing and spring/summer hats without any fear of being unseasonable.  When it becomes very cold a gentleman will want to dress to protect himself from the elements.  At the end of the day there are no “Sacred” rules governing what a freethinking individual can or cannot wear if he or she fancies…  A gentleman whose wisdom always combines courtesy with a reverence for human nature will not openly judge such personal choices that are the property of others keeping all but the most generous and sincere complements to himself.  Criticism that injures a person’s sense of self-worth is ineffective at achieving its primary goal because beauty shines from the inside out.  We cannot impose our concepts of beauty on others, rather we must challenge ourselves to work more diligently at comprehending the other persons philosophy of what beauty is.

Prior to permanently paved roads most roadways were simply dirt roads.  Spats kept dirt and mud from entering a gentleman's shoes or boots.


A polite gentleman will never criticize another person for dressing out of season although he may be thinking it.  Vulgarians commonly mistake this refinement of human nature to be a falsehood but a gentleman understands why he must not disclose every random thought and impulse he feels especially if it may have the capacity to hurt another.  Furthermore, no gentleman will participate in a conversation in which someone is being critiqued negatively because of their choice of apparel regardless of the nature of the comment.  A true gentleman will always show restraint in maters that have potential to hurt someone’s self-esteem or damage a person’s image of themselves.  A gentleman exercises his right to critique as a means to complement or decorate a condition he genuinely esteems as beautiful or handsome whichever the case may be.  Unless instructing his children or some other persons whom he is charged to instruct in such aesthetic matters he must assume it to be the inherent right and responsibility of an individual to freely express their concept of fashion through style.  Every man has the freedom to say whatever he feels but it is certainly the way he chooses to affect his environment by selectively administering the translation of his thoughts into verbal expressions or withholding them from disclosure that defines the stature of a true gentleman.

By the 1930's and 1940's spats were largely decorative features which no longer had any practical application since most urban roads were well paved and sewer systems kept excess water and rubbish to a minimum.


That being said, we may now discuss how a gentleman may use a complement to properly communicate his recognition of aesthetic beauty. 

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BEAUTY AND HANDSOMENESS:

Spats have always been beautiful adornments, here these military spats have made officers shoes far more handsome.


A complement is a decorative feature in every language intended to communicate a respectable degree of affirmation and homage to a very specific aesthetic which is being admired.  Although the English language does not utilise masculine and feminine forms of adjectives the use of the term beautiful is traditionally applied to females whilst the term handsome is applied to males.  For instance, a gentleman might complement a woman for looking beautiful in her dress but would be certain to note the handsomeness of another gentleman’s cravat.  A gentleman would never refer to another man’s garment or possession as “Pretty” for fear it might be interpreted to imply that the feature was inappropriately feminine in nature.  Likewise, a gentleman must be certain that his complement evokes a clear celebration of a woman’s femininity never delivering any suggestion that a woman’s charms might be rustic, masculine or unrefined.  For example, “That dress has a very bold pattern” should be revised to say, “I love the way the bold color of that dress is so elegantly balanced by the delicate floral motif.”  Or in the case of a man perhaps a modification of his man-bag one might say, “I really like the strong lines and handsomely appointed leather tooling of your bag,” replacing, “That’s a cute, little bag you have got there man.”  It is not enough merely to give a complement but one must take into consideration how the complement is structured and how it might be received.  Being conscious of how others feel takes us out of ourselves and helps us appreciate the human condition.  The bottom line is that if you do not have something positive and appropriate to say keep it to yourself!  The world is full of Vulgarians who spit out some of the most inane and disrespectful nonsense that we are all forced to endure; a gentleman always thinks before he speaks and fashions his commentary so that it will be well received by all.

Spats can be had in virtually any colour or pattern imaginable by today's gentlemen.


The use of the term beautiful, handsome, lovely, charming, stunning, etc., can be freely used as a complement for inanimate objects, concepts, etc., that are not directly associated with a man’s or woman’s personal effects and do not in any way imply a condition contrary to their sex or bringing into question the issue of sexual orientation.  For instance, “That is a handsome garden you have cultivated Mr. Scruggs”.  For a lady, a gentleman would revise this complement to say, “Why that is a lovely French parterre you have cultivated Ms. Aziz”.   Sometimes men give to their vehicles a female persona, a gentleman will never assume this but will wait, taking his cue from the owner before saying, “Mr. Obuwange that is quite a handsome jaguar.” Or Mr. Brillet, she’s the prettiest corvette I’ve seen off the assembly line this year.”

One important feature of a good pair of spats is the brace attaching the spats to the shoe sometimes with a buckle but mostly as a simple elastic band passing underneath the shoe between the heel and ball of the foot.


A gentleman is tolerant of all sexual orientations and aesthetic expression and will never manipulate his words to misrepresent a complement as a negative critique.   Any male using his skills of observation to berate or intimidate another person, (especially if they are present), to affirm his dislike of or disgust with anyone’s personal aesthetic, is not a gentleman at all, they have sunken to the lowest level of vulgarity.  When we complement others we give them a chance to shine and to feel special in a marvelous way.  The proper use of the complement is a gentleman’s signature mark of distinction.


Written by David Vollin


Saturday, May 4, 2013

THE SIMPLE ELEGANCE OF SUMMER WHITE


"VIVE LA VIE ELEGANT!"

One of the things I look forward to are the many stylish white parties that are coming up this season.  Hopefully after man hours of careful preparation they will all be long remembered as evenings of unmistakable, landmark handsomeness...  Many gentlemen have already put their tailors to work, others patiently shop to find just the perfect apparel for a splendid night of style.  Like you, it is the heart and spirit of gentlemanly style that I enjoy celebrating and all the more gracious when done for a good cause.



As a young collegian I remember musing over the upcoming promise of spring and summer with one of my  buddies, we romanticized ourselves living as artists in Paris, London, Brussels, Cairo and other exotic cities around the 1890's clad only in white linen suits.   We'd  talk for hours at a busy cafe writing and painting by night... or sketching in some smokey burlesque or after-hours venue.  Victorian men always wore white linen suits when on holiday in the warm, exotic places of the globe.  Wearing white is like exploring a new world. There are rules and then there are also so many chances to digress with color, texture and silhouette.  I hope you are as excited as I am about the long warm days of summer clothed in white in the tradition of so many gentlemen before...

"VIVE L'AMOUR DU STYLE!"

 

Written by D. Vollin

Saturday, April 13, 2013

WHAT IS THE PROPER TIME FOR MEN TO WEAR SPRING AND SUMMER HATS AND CLOTHES?


WHAT IS THE PROPER TIME FOR MEN TO WEAR SPRING AND SUMMER HATS AND CLOTHES?



After a long cold winter a gentleman is eager put his fine beaver and fur felt hats away for the upcoming spring and summer months.  Like me, you may have been shopping for new summer hats a full month before spring and Easter arrive.  Uppermost on the minds of many men is the singular question, “When Is It Appropriate To Begin Wearing Warm Weather Hats And Clothes”?  The answer is that it is generally a matter of preference but warm weather clothes should be featured beginning with the first day of spring, at Easter or beginning with Memorial Day.   



In those regions of the world where the winter cold may still be lingering making it impractical to dress for warm weather the best rule is to dress for the weather.  Being a slave to the dictates of fashion is a poor epitaph even for the fashion forward who might otherwise have lived many long years to make the landscape decidedly more handsomely stylish.  Fashion is not intended to be a thing we die for, or as will more likely be the case, to get sick over, it is all about living as comfortably and stylishly as we can.  That being said, it is my opinion that we gentlemen have four options from which to pick, the three mentioned previously and the fourth which is the common sense answer; “when the weather is accommodating for warm weather apparel”.  More than likely it will be these first three; Spring, Easter or Memorial Day. 



The least conservative window for wearing straw, silk or other warm weather hats and attire is at The Vernal Equinox on the first day of spring typically in mid-April.  Virtually every place in North America located above the 35th parallel north will be experiencing winter-like weather at the beginning of spring, hence the origin of the All American, “Spring Break”.  The obvious question is, “If spring is the first day that one should wear spring and summer hats is it the first day one can shift to spring and summer clothing”?  It is my opinion that one should not wear one without the other.  There may be some leakage of suede or fine fur hats with a short, sueded finish with spring apparel but the heavy winter chapeau’s must be left behind once the linen, cotton and other warm weather fabrics are pulled out of the trunk.    Most places above the 55rd Parallel North Latitude will be experiencing anything but warm weather at the vernal equinox.



A more conservative window for wearing straw hats and warm weather attire opens on Easter Sunday in late March.  We all remember the pastel coloured suits we donned on Easter day they are still as vivid as if we were reminiscing through our old family photograph album?  Easter is a splendid time to inaugurate our warm weather apparel, launching the season’s fashions for the next 5 to six months of stylistic interpretation.  Easter is a time that even the most conservative men can agree upon even though we often revert to our winter garb on the Monday morning following Easter Sunday. 



The most conservative window for wearing warm weather apparel including hats and other fabrics opens on Memorial Day toward the end of May.  Victorians considered it to be improper to wear white before for Memorial Day.  Fortunately we are no longer living in the world of the Victorians.  Memorial Day is a perfectly fine time to begin wearing warm weather clothes but with the rapidly changing climate we have been experiencing in the first quarter of the century the early warming trend may make it impractical to continue wearing heavy winter garments in order to keep an old tradition going. 



As with most things we must take such rules, traditions and conventions with a grain or two of salt.  I only recently found myself discussing this topic with one of the proprietors of Andrea’s Fine Hats and she mentioned that they begin to get calls before and around spring asking when it is proper to wear straw hats.  My best advice is to use your own best discretion.  If we experience an unseasonable early warming trend it is wise to dress for the weather.  It is perfectly fine to wear a spring suit for Easter Sunday and then go back to winter clothing the next day if the weather is still very wintry. 



Whatever he does a gentleman should attempt to be as appropriate as he can.  A gentleman will never criticize or debase anyone based on their choice of clothing or timing of said choice even in the most discrete company; he must be completely tolerant of another gentleman’s freedom of choice even though it does not mirror his own.  A gentleman never says or implies anything that might hurt or insult another gentleman as it is his duty to model the utmost of tolerance.  A gentleman understands that clothing is a circumstantial factor and far more important is the dignity of human being wearing them.  We never know why a person wears what they wear; it could be due to poverty or a billion other variables we do not have the ability to understand or the power to change. Therefore, a gentleman must show great restraint so as not to make judgment on the way another person is clothed unless they are a client of his and he is a clothier or as a matter of profession he is engaged to deliver his critique of some specific apparel.  So a gentleman should not judge another person based on their clothes, he should evaluate them against their deeds.



Whatever time you determine is the appropriate moment for you to begin wearing warm weather hats and apparel I implore you to have fun with them.  Always dress for your own pleasure.  Be creative and confident in your personal sense of style…



Written By: David Vollin
BIGDADDYBLUES VINTAGE HABERDASHER
VISIT US ON FACEBOOK AT:  Bigdaddyblues Vintage Haberdasher  

Monday, February 18, 2013

A WELL HATTED EVENING…





A WELL HATTED EVENING…

This weekend I visited one of the local legends for men’s hats, Andrea’s Fine Hats located at 7825 Eastern Avenue Silver Spring Maryland 20920.  Every time I visit I walk away with another wonderful hat to add to my collection but there is something else I take away with me as I bid the ladies farewell, a sense of family and community.  Whilst shopping at Andrea’s we actually take time to talk.  As customers come in and before they depart all contribute their two-cents in the pleasant conversation.  There is a small bench right at the door where the ladies sit offering expert opinions and critique as I try each hat on.  I know they will give me an honest opinion and in between our conversations remind me of a time when things were much more genteel…

 

I strongly recommend a visit to Andrea's Fine Hats and here is the store number, please call to get the hours and try to get there early enough to take your time and have some old fashioned conversation.  The store number is 301-565-5009 and the web-address is:  http://www.finehats.com/ .  As Andrea herself says, drop on by and get some “Hattitude”!

 

Written by D. Vollin



Friday, December 7, 2012

A DAY OF CLASSIC COATS...

It was Friday and I needed some creative inspiration to make it through... so where else could I turn but to my carefully collected vintage closet to clothe the day in something extraordinarily special... so as I left the long hallway to the outside I was clothed in style... No matter what the day had in store for me I was prepared... looking and feeling good are half the battle... Now I see that many men have stopped wearing the raincoat... or topcoat... I see a few business men wearing them faithfully but of late I have also seen some young men sporting them with jeans, slacks, corduroys giving an upscale look to what might otherwise be a mundane ensemble...

Later in the evening I chose a favorite of mine, a wool and faux fur greatcoat... I love the chunky collar of this  greatcoat... and I chose a new Cossack hat to accessorize it... Yes, I had plenty of vintage Cossack hats but somehow this one was the item that I pulled from the hat rack in my closet... 

Besides being wonderfully functional, a well designed topcoat or greatcoat can also be a stylish way of keeping out the winter cold.  In damp climates like the Mid-Atlantic region of the East Coast you just have to have something between you and the frigid humidity... 

Modern topcoats and greatcoats have more features for storage and such, the vintage models are more functional in that they protect you from the elements.  I never like to clutter the drape of a graciously cut coat with keys, gloves, and other such necessities... personally if at all possible I travel as lightly as possible especially when heading out on the town...


When accessorizing a coat it is most important to pull details from the fabric, buttons, collar, etc., in order to pull it together with the rest of the outfit.  Personally I love clean uncomplicated lines, a generous collar that goes well with the brim of my hat...

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Sunday, December 2, 2012

VINTAGE TIES REFRESH THE MODERN DILEMMA OF FASHION UBIQUITY...





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I'VE ALWAYS BEEN A VINTAGE TIE AESTHETE... ABOVE I AM WEARING A 5 IN. WIDE BURGUNDY KNIT TIE CIRCA 1973. I LOVE 70'S TIES, ESPECIALLY THE DOUBLE-KNIT, DACRON POLYESTER ONES BECAUSE THEY KNOT SO WELL AND HOLD THEIR SHAPE MUCH BETTER THAN NATURAL FIBERS... THE OVAL "REPUSSE" PATTERN WENT SO WELL WITH THE ONE ON MY SHIRT I KNEW THEY WERE MADE TO BE WORN TOGETHER... ALTHOUGH NEARLY 30 YEARS LAY BETWEEN THEM...

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3 Fine Silk Ties
The average gentleman shops at the same stores every other man shops at.  This can mean only one thing, look alike syndrome... What truly sets a gentleman apart from every other man is the uniqueness of his wardrobe.  But in a modern market of mass produced fashion virtually everything that can be bought ready to wear is ubiquitous... generic... 
Surely every man has the ability to give apparel a personal touch setting it apart from the next one but fine vintage clothing is one of a kind, you'll never see it on another man unless you are looking in a mirror...



Many vintage patterns are resurfacing today in virtually every designer collection.  As quiet as it is kept as early on as the early 1990's fashion houses like Dolce and Gabbana and Kenneth Cole started copying simple men's clothing from the late 1950's to the early 1970's including the flat front, the peg leg the tailored blazer and shirt and narrower collar.  When I first started seeing their clothing in fashion magazines I thought I was looking through the racks of a thrift store with exceptionally good vintage buys.  These classics had already been made all they had to do was copy them and add a few personal touches updated fabrics etc.  But it is so much nicer to have the one of a kind original than pay for a copy worn by hundreds of thousands of men.  For a man of distinction vintage is the clear choice.  
4 in. 1970's Tie with exploded plaid pattern



Two heavy 4 in. Polyester Damasks at the ends and a fine woven stripe and  foulard  middle.








A hansome foulard with a fade-away stipe typical of 1970's cravats.









3 pristine skinny 1950's cravats.