Monday, October 29, 2012

VINTAGE BRACES...



Many gentlemen have their trousers outfitted for braces in order to achieve a refined silhouette and to allow greater ease of movement about the waist.  Braces were essential elements of a gentleman's wardrobe prior to the turn of the twentieth century until WWI when they briefly lost favor in lieu of the modern waist belt until after WWII during the 1940's when they enjoyed a revival in popularity.  Braces are a permanent fixture in contemporary men's formal attire and are gaining favor again as alternatives to the belt in daily wear.  Vintage braces can be found in many fine materials and patterns, older braces that are closer to 1900 or earlier should not  be worn at all but later specimens which are less delicate can be enjoyed on formal occasions and then only briefly due to their fragility.  Like all  vintage apparel, vintage and historical gentlemen's braces are unique, handsomely crafted, one of a kind treasures often crafted with fine silks, damasks silver, gold and  fine leather and other hides.  If you are fortunate enough to happen upon vintage braces that are still in good condition enjoy them while you discover how remarkably they complement the modern gentleman's  wardrobe and style.




ALL OF THE BRACES IN THIS COLLECTION ARE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION AND READY TO BE WORN FOR DAILY USE OR FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS...
BE SURE TO ASK ABOUT THE ONES THAT
SUIT YOUR FANCY...





BRACE-A1





BRACE-A2






BRACE-A3





BRACE-A4




PLEASE CHECK BACK FREQUENTLY TO SEE NEW ARRIVALS

























Monday, October 22, 2012

GENTLEMEN WHO WEAR VINTAGE...


Langston Hughes' Legendary Harlem Renaissance  Style
Whenever I am at the flea market or other such venue I am always amazed at the great number and variety of men who wear vintage.  Many men have been wearing vintage for years, they got their start as kids hanging out with an older family member starting small but working their way to substantial collections of vintage treasures by manhood.  Some men started later in life or just began to cultivate an interest and understanding of men’s fine vintage apparel.  No matter what their background they all come together at the flea market often donning the prize pieces of their collection, searching for even more amazing specimens of fine vintage gentleman’s attire…  I find there is no specific recipe for identifying men who wear or might wear vintage but there are some common threads, (please don’t mind the pun), that they share.  Most gentlemen who wear vintage share a love for classic line, fine fabric, gems and metals and of course the uniqueness of a one of a kind functional object d’art…

1960's Cufflinks

I once overheard a man mention that if he truly liked a particular piece of clothing he would always buy two, one to wear now and one for special occasions.  Once a fashion season ends its bountiful cache of treasures is forever no longer available.  Wearing vintage clothing allows fashionable gentlemen to defy time by shopping today 40, 50 or even 100 years ago.  Buying fine vintage clothing is tantamount to a time anomaly it places us in two very real places in time simultaneously… When I was a teenager I bought dozens of vintage 20’s, 30’s, 40’s and 50’s smoking jackets and tuxedos, the extraordinary level of craftsmanship largely varied as garments once all handmade became nearly 100% machine made.  The fabric consisting of fabulous silk damasks, cut velvets, sharkskin’s and satins, twills and piques are very simply not made anymore, the fabric and quality of these vintage pieces are worlds away from anything being produced today.  Gentlemen who prefer vintage are looking for a certain feel and presence, an attitude and style that principally begins with the definition of a pure and classic line or silhouette…

Distinctive Homburg Hat

One of the many disappointments of modern clothing is the lack of detail.  Tailors and fabric manufacturers 50 years ago and earlier had plenty of time to think out some of the most amazing construction, weave and texture details.  I almost never see such luxurious items as mohair sweaters and decadently rich speckled tweeds.  The special nuances of embroidery, grosgrain and other trim used to elevate men’s formal wear to unprecedented heights is thoroughly unknown by modern tailors and designers.  Like great classic architecture, modern designers will tell you that it the cost of reproducing vintage garments would be prohibitive, all the more reason to collect vintage.  The weight and durability of vintage fabrics is another of their undeniable hallmarks to which no modern facsimiles can compare…  the patina of mellowed fabric, the richness and detail of jewelry and accessories, the quality of gems and precious metals bought together as objects d’art are the unique features that bring gentlemen back to their vintage pieces time and time again.  There are sometimes competent reproductions and reinterpretations of vintage men’s apparel and accessories to be had and I avidly purchase them incorporating them into my wardrobe to fill in for antique pieces which simply cannot be found. 


More than any other thing, the rarity of fine vintage men’s clothing makes them cherished additions to a gentleman’s wardrobe.  It is not just the potential they possess to be unique conversation pieces but there is an inner satisfaction one has when wearing them knowing that they have survived all these years intact.  Men’s garments are very perishable under normal conditions because any number of variables can come together to destroy them over time.  Many fine men’s garments are mindlessly discarded forever simply because they are old and presumed no longer fashionable.  Every man who collects and wears vintage wares knows this is far from the truth, these rare, one of a kind items  are precious elements with which a gentleman of distinction and taste can express his sense of personal style.  For the average men clothing is merely a uniform intended to protect him from the elements and identify him.  For the gentleman stylist, the dapper, proper gentleman of superior style, his clothing is the ultimate form of self-expression that can be tangibly communicated.  A gentleman’s style gives him distinction among other men, it is his signature. 

FIN


BY DAVID VOLLIN




Sunday, October 14, 2012

VINTAGE CRAVATES

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OF ALL THE WONDERFULLY HANDSOME ACCESSORIES THAT COMPRISE A GENTLEMANS'S WARDROBE, THE CRAVATE IS PERHAPS MOST EASILY ACCESSIBLE WINDOW INTO A MAN'S TRUE SENSE OF STYLE... I USUALLY ADD AN EXTRA TWENTY MINUTES TO MY SCHEDULE FOR THE CAREFUL SELECTION OF MY TIE. 

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                                               A-C12






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CHECK BACK SOON FOR NEW SELECTIONS































CARING FOR FINE, VINTAGE/HISTORIC CRAVATS



 

A man’s cravat gives him a distinctive look after he has carefully knotted it to suit his mood.  Your cravat is actually a utilitarian object d’art and after being knotted, twisted and clamped or pinned all day the fabric becomes distressed and must be allowed to relax and return to its original shape.  During the course of the day the densely woven fibers of your cravat are stretched out of shape so it is important to store them in a manner that will allow the fabric to achieve a balanced structural recovery.  Vintage Cravats can generally be worn at any time including work and leissure however historic cravats should only be worn on special occasions and must be removed or replaced when eating or handling any chemicals.  If you stain your vintage cravat take it to a professional conservator specializing in textile cleaning and conservation.  Remember that your vintge/historic cravat is a one of a kind item that has survived the test of time, it can be irreversibly damaged or destroyed in a matter of seconds requiring hours of potentially costly conservation to restore it to its former handsomeness.

STORAGE:  The best way to store a cravat is to roll it loosely and store it away from direct sunlight and dust.  Rolling the cravat allows it to return to its original shape and air out again and it is a natural way of removing folds and wrinkles.  It is best to store rolled cravats in a drawer or a closed container with proper vintillations holes away from direct sunlight.

DAMAGE BY SUNLIGHT:  Direct sunlight will eventually discolor the delicate dyes on all natural fibers such as silk, linen, cotton, wool and rayon but it will even discolor polyester.  Storing your fine cravats in a place away from light and dust will ensure that the fabric remains crisp and colors will remain vibrant.  As a rule of thumb if cravats or any vintage/historic textile is to be stored out in the open or exposed to light the level of illumination should not exceed 50 lux and all UV light should be filtered out to prevent damage. 

DIRT AND DUST:  When dirt particles from dust are allowed to invade the interstitial areas of the weave of a fabric it can cause irreversible discoloration and deterioration. 

MOLD AND FUNGUS:  Keeping your cravats away from all moisture ensures that mold; bacteria and fungus will not be able to grow on and literally eat your fine cravats away.   If you ever suspect any fabric has been compromised by mold or bacteria a fungicide suitable for textiles should be professionally administered to preserve the garment. 

DAMAGE BY OILS AND STAINS:  Men who have beards or facial hair such a goatees must be careful that the oils and other conditioners and fragrances applied to facial hair does not have a chance to soil their fine cravats.  With new cravats it may be a simple matter of a good dry cleaning but with delicate vintage fabrics a curator’s touch is required.  Never machine or hand wash a vintage cravat you will cause the fabric to shrink and the unstable dyes will bleed.   Contact a textile conservator at a local museum for best results. 
DAMAGE BY INSECTS AND VERMIN:  As surely as you treasure your collection of fine vintage clothing insects and vermin look to them as potential food.  Insects such as moth larvae, silver fish, mites, cockroaches, beetles, etc., feed on the protien and cellulose contained in the plant and animal fibers of which your vintage wardrobe is composed.  Since these verimi will consume your vintage treasures without regard for thier value you must be sure to protect them properly so that no access is possible.  Vintge Cravats should be rolled and stored in drawers or acid free paper boxes. 

DAMAGE BY WATER:  A common way to damage a vintage cravat is to get it wet.  When washing ones hands at the sink the cravat will naturally drag the counter top absorbing any liquid it sees.  Water is no friend to your vintage cravat, the dyes and pigments used to create the wonderful designs you love are rarely colorfast and will bleed or fade to your horror.  Older fabric is not as supple as modern fabric and exposure to water can cause irregular shrinking and deformation of the woven matrix of your cravat.
PROPER STORAGE CLIMATE:  Vintage and historic textiles should be stored  at temperatures between 65 degrees and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and at around 50% humidity.  Storing cravats or any vintage/historic fabrics at high humidity levels will contribute to growth of mold, mildew and fungus;  temperatures below 35 degrees humidity may cause a condition known as dry-rot.

NEVER DRY CLEAN VINTAGE NECKWEAR OR CLOTHING:  Never take vintage cravats to the dry cleaners because their delicate fabrics will be shredded and damaged beyond recognition.  The chemicals used to dry clean modern dyes may fade or discolor old dyes and pigments and they may break down the delicate fabric itself.  If you are eating or drinking while wearing your vintage cravat either cover it with a bib or handkerchief or take it off completely until after you have finished.  Never adjust or touch your cravat without washing your hands as the oils and dirt will leave a residue that will eventually develop into a permanent stain.

IRONING AND STEAMING:  Be careful when attempting to iron or steam a vintage cravat especially to ensure you do not burn or singe the fabric.  Remember, Polyester was invented around 1941 and many vintage cravats may contain synthetic fabrics designed to enhance the texture, sheen and color of the textile.  Once a tie is burned it is impossible to repair.  Always use the coolest setting and it is best to use a towel or other absorbent fabric between the iron and the surface of the vintage fabric.

WHEN YOU TAKE OFF YOUR CRAVAT:  As a rule always return your vintage cravat to its safe storage place when you take it off. 

 
For more information about proper care of vintage and historic textiles you may visit the Natiional Park Service Website at:  http://www.nps.gov/museum/publications/MHI/Appendix%20K.pdf

Saturday, October 6, 2012

VINTANGE HATS

THIS COLLECTION OF VINTAGE HATS OFFERS RARE FUR-FELT FROM THE 1940's THROUGH THE 1960's IN ABSOLUTELY PRISTINE CONDITION. NO TRUE VINTAGE ITEM IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE DAY IT WAS MADE, TIME AND WEAR ADD DISTINCT CHARACTER TO THESE UNIQUE GARMENTS. FLAWLESSNESS IS THE HALLMARK OF THIS MEN'S EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION HAND PICKED BY BIGDADDYBLUES FOR QUALITY AND STYLE...

See Whats New In Bigdaddy's Collection On EBAY At:
BIGDADDYBLUES.VINTAGE.HABERDASHER
VISIT BIGDADDYBLUES VINTAGE HABERDASHER'S FAN PAGE ON FACEBOOK AT: http://www.facebook.com/BigdaddybluesVintageHaberdasher?ref=hl#!/BigdaddybluesVintageHaberdasher

A STYLISH VINTAGE HAT CAN REMARKABLY UPDATE A MAN'S WARDROBE AND GIVE HIM A POLISHED SOPHISTICATED LOOK THAT WILL SET HIM APART IN A CLASSIC WAY, WHEREVER HE  GOES.  OTHER GENTLEMEN WILL STOP HIM AND ASK WHERE HE GOT HIS HAT FROM.  WHEN YOU WEAR A FINE MEN'S VINTAGE HAT YOU KNOW THERE IS NO OTHER LIKE IT IN THE WORLD.  IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT ANY HAT IN THIS COLLECTION PLEASE CONTACT BIGDADDYBLUES AT:    BIGDADDYBLUES62@YAHOO.COM


A-DHB:  THE  FIRST HAT IN THIS COLLECTION IS A TAUPE FUR FELT DOBBS WITH A CLASSIC, BLACK, 2 INCH GROSGRAIN BAND.  THE STYLE, QUINTESSENTIAL DOBBS, IS A VARIATION ON THE HOMBURG BUT WITH A STINGY BRIM, UNBOUND...

THE FRONT SILHOUETTE IS MARVELLOUSLY PROPORTIONED, THE VERTICAL BALANCE BETWEEN THE GROSGRAIN, CROWN AND BRIM ARE CLEAN AND MODERN. 

THE DISTINCTIVE DOBBS LABEL CAN BE DISCERNED AT THE TOP OF THE CROWN AND PRINTED IN GOLD ON THE LETHER SWEAT BAND ON THE INTERIOR.  SIZE 7.5.




B-BHB:  THE NEXT HAT IN OUR COLLECTION IS A DARK BROWN FUR-FELT HOMBURG WITH A 2 INCH BLACK GROSGRAIN BAND AND ORIGINAL HAT STRAP.  THE HAT IS LINED WITH AN ORANGE SILK/SATIN.  THIS HAT WAS MADE BY A COMPANY NAMED BRODT'S INC. HAT FACTORY IN WASHINGTON, DC.  THE COMPANY WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1872.



A  CLOSEUP OF THE GROSGRAIN BAND, BOW AND ORIGINAL FEATHER OF BLUE-VIOLET ON RED.



THE RICH FUR IS SOFT AND SUPPLE WITH A SUEDED TEXTURE. IT HAS A STINGY BRIM AND IS IMPECCABLY PROPORTIONED.  SIZE-7.



THE INTERIOR OF THE HAT HAS A WARM ORANGE SILK/SATIN LINING AND IT IS IN MINT CONDITION. 


BRODT'S INC. HAT FACTORY AT 423 11TH STREET N.W. EST.1872.  THIS PHOTOGRAPH TAKEN AROUND 1940.



C-DHM:  THE NEXT GENTLEMAN'S HAT IS A DOBBS OF EXQUISITE CRAFTSMANSHIP THIS LORDS STYLE HAT HAS A STIFFENED BRIM.  THE BODY IS A RICH BEIGE FUR-FELT WITH A 2 INCH OLIVE GROSGRAIN BAND. 



A VIEW OF THE INTERIOR REVEALS A BURGUNDY SILK/SATIN LINING AND THE CLASSIC DOBBS LABEL.
THIS HANDSOMELY MASCULINE VINTAGE HAT IS A SIZE 7 1/8.




D-HB:  THIS BEIGE FIR-FELT HOMBURG HAS A 2 INCH BLACK GROSGRAIN BAND AND IS SUPPLE AS SWEDE.  IT IS A DISTINCTIVE AND ESSENTIAL ELEMENT FOR EVERY GENTLEMAN'S WARDROBE.  THE BRIM CAN BE TURNED DOWN IN FRONT TO MIMIC THE LOOK OF THE CLASSIC FEDORA.



SIZE 7/14 INCHES.


CARE INSTRUCTIONS:  VINTAGE HATS SHOULD NEVER BE WORN IN THE RAIN OR SNOW UNLESS THEY ARE FULLY PROTECTED FROM MOISTURE.  VINTAGE HATS SHOULD BE STORED IN A COOL DRY PLACE IN A HAT BOX UPSIDE DOWN.  FINE VINTAGE FUR HATS SHOULD NEVER BE STACKED TIGHT AGAINST EACH OTHER BECAUSE THE GROSGRAIN WILL BE WRINKLED AND THE SHAPE DAMAGED.  FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PROPER HAT CARE CONTACT A REPUTABLE MILLINER NEAR YOU.