Thursday, November 8, 2012

TIE QUESTIONNAIRE


 
 PLEASE COMPLETE THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONNAIRE; YOU MAY HAVE MORE THAN ONE ANSWER PER QUESTION IF APPLICABLE… JOT YOUR ANSWERS DOWN ON A PIECE OF PAPER AND THEN PLEASE POST YOUR ANSWERS AT THE END OF THIS ARTICLE WITH THE QUESTION NUMBER FIRST AND LETTER ANSWER(S) SECOND, FOR EXAMPLE:

(1-A; 2-C; 3-A B C & D; 4-B…)



BEGIN THE QUESTIONNAIRE:

 

1.       HOW OFTEN DO YOU WEAR TIES?

A.      DAILY?

B.      NEVER?

C.      ONLY ON RARE FORMAL OCCASIONS LIKE GRADUATIONS, WEDDINGS AND FUNERALS?

D.      WHEN THE FANCY HITS YOU?

2.       DO YOU WEAR A TIE TO WORK?

A.      ONLY WHEN YOU HAVE MEETINGS?

B.      WHEN YOU WANT (NOT MANDATORY DRESS CODE)?

C.      ALWAYS (MANDATORY DRESS CODE)?

3.       DO YOU WEAR TIES FOR:                                  

A.      SOCIAL EVENTS?

B.      PARTYING/CLUBBING?

C.      HANGING OUT AS A CASUAL ACCESSORY?

D.      CHURCH?

E.       PERSONAL BUSINESS AFFAIRS?

4.       HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU SPEND SELECTING A TIE?

A.      5 MINUTES OR LES?

B.      10 MINUTES OR LESS?

C.      20 MINUTES OR MORE?

5.       HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU SPEND PERFECTING YOUR KNOT?

A.      2 MINUTES OR LESS?

B.      NOT MORE THAN 5 MINUTES?

C.      IF MORE THAN 5 MINUTES, WHY?

6.       WHAT KNOTS DO YOU USE THE MOST?

A.      WINDSOR KNOT?

B.      HALF WINDSOR KNOT?

C.      FOUR-IN-HAND KNOT?         

D.      PRATT KNOT?

E.       SHELBY KNOT?

7.       WHAT STYLE OF TIE COMPRISES MOST OF YOUR TIE COLLECTION?

A.      FOULARD'S?

B.      STRIPES?

C.      PRINTS?

D.      ARABESQUES/PAISLEY?

E.       PLAIN/SOLID?

8.       WHAT FABRICS DO YOU PREFER IN A TIE?

A.      SILK (YEAR ROUND)?

B.      SILK (SPECIFY PREFERRED TIME OF YEAR OF OTHER)?

C.      COTTON (YEAR ROUND)?

D.      COTTON (SUMMER ONLY)?            

E.       WOOL (YEAR ROUND)?

F.       WOOL (WINTER ONLY)?

G.     RAYON (YEAR ROUND)?

H.      RAYON (SPECIFY PREFERRED TIME OF YEAR OF OTHER)?

I.        POLYESTER (YEAR ROUND)?

J.        POLYESTER (SPECIFY PREFERRED TIME OF YEAR OF OTHER)?

9.       WHAT TEXTURE AND FINISH DO YOU PREFER IN A TIE?

A.      SMOOTH MATTE?

B.      SMOOTH SHINY?

C.      IRIDESCENT/SHARKSKIN?

D.      ROUGH-TEXTURED?

E.       BROAD KNIT OR WOVEN?

10.   OF ALL THE TIES IN YOUR COLLECTION WHAT COLOR IS REPRESENTED THE MOST?

A.      BLACK TO GREY RANGE?

B.      DARK-RED-VIOLET TO RED RANGE?

C.      LIGHT-PINK TO MAUVE RANGE?

D.      DARK-BLUE VIOLET TO BLUE RANGE?

E.       LIGHT-LAVENDER TO LIGHT BLUE-VIOLET RANGE?     

F.       DARK-BLUE-GREEN TO GREEN RANGE?

G.     LIGHT-BLUE GREEN TO LIGHT GREEN RANGE?

H.      DARK-OLIVE TO BROWN RANGE?

I.        LIGHT-OLIVE TO LIGHT-BROWN RANGE?

J.        DARK-YELLOW TO ORANGE RANGE

K.      LIGHT YELLOW TO ORANGE RANGE?

11.   WHAT PART OF YOUR APPAREL DO YOU TRY TO MATCH THE TIE TO:

A.      SHIRT?

B.      TROUSERS?

C.      BLAZER?

D.      SUIT?

E.       WAIST COAT?

F.       SHOES?

G.     HAT?

H.      CONTRAST COLOR DIFFERENT FROM THE ABOVE ELEMENTS?

12.   IF YOU WERE TO ATTEMPT TO EXPLAIN YOUR PHILOSOPHY OF TIE COORDINATION WHAT WOULD IT BE?

13.   WHAT WIDTH OF TIE DO YOU PREFER?

A.      SKINNY 1.0 IN. OR LESS?

B.      SKINNY 1.0 IN. - 2.O IN.?              

C.      MEDIUM 2.5 IN. - 3.0 IN?

D.      WIDE 3.5 – 4.5 IN?

14.   WHAT TYPE OF TIES DO YOU WEAR?

A.      TRADITIONAL NECK TIES (HAND KNOTTED)?

B.      TRADITIONAL NECK TIES (CLIP ON/PRE TIED)?

C.      BOW TIES (HAND KNOTTED)?

D.      BOW TIES (CLIP ON/PRE TIED)?

E.       ASCOT?

F.       SCARF?

15.   WHICH OF THESE IS MOST IMPORTANT TO YOUR STYLE MOST OF THE TIME?

A.      A “SAY SOMETHING” BOLD TIE?

B.      A SUBDUED TIE THAT BLENDS PERFECTLY?

C.      A TIE THAT MAKES A STATEMENT BUT DOES NOT OVERPOWER THE ENSEMBLE AS A WHOLE?

16.   WHAT ACCESSORIES DO YOU WEAR OR WOULD LIKE TO WEAR WITH A TIE?

A.      A TIE BAR AND MATCHING CUFFLINKS?

B.      A TIE BAR ONLY?

C.      A TIE TACK OR PIN?

D.      A COLLAR BAR?

E.       A MATCHING POCKET SQUARE?

F.       A MATCHING BUTTONEER?

 

THANK YOU                              

DAVID VOLLIN


 

And check out Bigdaddyblues Vintage Haberdasher’s Fan Page on Facebook

 

NEWS FLASH!  BIGDADDYBLUES is coming to EBAY soon at: BIGDADDYBLUES.VINTAGE.HABERDASHER

 

 

 

 

Sunday, November 4, 2012

CARING FOR FINE VINTAGE AND HISTORIC MEN'S CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES...

Suede cleaning tools can be used on fur felt hats

THE PROPER CARE OF FINE VINTAGE AND HISTORIC MEN'S HATS...

THERE ARE SEVERAL METHODS FOR CLEANING MEN'S HATS AND ALL SHOULD BE APPLIED SPARINGLY ESPECIALLY FOR VINTAGE AND HISTORIC APPAREL.  IF YOU HAVE BEEN FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO FIND A VINTAGE HAT IN MINT CONDITION KEEP IT SAFE AND CLEAN, KEEP IT AWAY FROM DUST AND SUNLIGHT.  WHEN BRUSHING A FUR FELT HAT DO SO EVER SO GENTLY SO AS NOT TO BUILD UP A NAP ON THE SURFACE, THE OBJECTIVE IS MERELY TO REMOVE ANY DUST AND MOLD PARTICLES RESIDING ON THE SURFACE.  ABOVE ARE A SUEDE CLEANING BAR AND BRUSH USED LIKE AN ERASER BUT APPLIED IN SLOW, LIGHT CIRCULAR MOTIONS BEFORE THE DUST IS GENTLY BRUSHED AWAY FROM THE SURFACE OF THE HAT.

D. Vollin
Bigdaddyblues Vintage Haberdasher


PROPER HAT CARE

Handling Hats
Proper handling will extend the life of your hat. Never try to touch the hat with dirty, oily hands or gloves. There is no quicker way to ruin your hat. Pick up the hat from underneath by both the front and back brim to maintain the shape and set of the brim. If you have a hat stand or block, resting the hat on one of those will make this operation easier.

Avoid resting your hat on flat surfaces, especially if it has a snap brim. To preserve the pitch or scope, of the brim, the lower front of the brim should hang over the edge of any surface it is resting on. Hats left on a table top bow up in the front and back while bending the sides downward and forever deforming the shape of the brim. If need be, you can also rest a hat on its crown, providing you place it on a clean surface.

With proper handling and care, a quality hat will remain a thing of beauty and source of pride in any collection or on any head for years to come.

Cleaning And Removing Stains
When dealing with vintage hats, purists never wear them, less strict collectors wear them when their hair is very clean, and nobody takes the aging hat out in a downpour. Stiff hats will collapse. Keep a close eye on the weather when wearing vintage hats. If you are caught in the rain with your felt hat, turn out the sweatband to dry it and to provide a platform for the hat to slowly dry on. Gently push out the creases and dents to make the crown as rounded as possible. Never use a hair dryer as this will wrinkle and damage the hat. Once the hat is dry, gently reform the crease.

Whether vintage or modern, dust your hat daily with a soft-bristled brush. Stiff bristled brushes will tear the felt. Western stores frequently sell hatter's brushes for this dusting job. Use a dark-colored brush for dark hats and a light colored brush for light hats.

A damp towel with a slight nap can also be used to remove dust. Gently rub the dampened towel in a circular counterclockwise motion over the surface to quickly remove dust. A soft towel used to dry off with after a shower will work. Remember, do not try this with a stiff hat, moist shellac is a terrible thing.

For stubborn stains the brush will not reach, try using a soft, small-pored sponge such as a makeup sponge or a bit of foam rubber. Rubber sponges are slightly sticky and will coax surface soiling away from the felt. An art-gum eraser will work as well, as long as your remember to rub with a counterclockwise motion to the grain.

For deeper stains, sanding is required. Using the finest sandpaper on the market, move the sandpaper counterclockwise very gently and gently touch the dirty spot. Be careful not to dig in or use your finger to push up against the spot from underneath as either of these will cause the sandpaper to dig in and create a weak spot. When sanding is required, make sure to remove only the tiniest layer of felt.

Oily stains are a different matter. For these you need to head to the paint or drug store and find Fuller's Earth. It has the consistency of baking powder, will not stain hats, and will draw the oily residue out of the hat fibers Brush the stained spot off first. Apply roughly one-eight inch worth of Fuller's Earth, and let is sit for two or three hours. Brush the power off afterwards with a soft brush or towel. Repeat this process if necessary. When finished, use a plastic or rubber sponge to clean away powder that has penetrated into the felt.

If stains remain after all of this, find a professional renovator for your hat. Heavy sweat stains, for example, need professional attention as they penetrate deep into the body of the felt.

1920's Straw Boater With Brown Grosgrain

Straw Hats
1930's Homburg
A straw hat is a delicate item. If you want it to last you have to care for it in the proper fashion. Never handle a straw hat by its crown. The natural oils in our hands dry out the straw, and when the straw dries it becomes brittle and is more susceptible to cracking. Handle the hat by its brim, yes the oils still affect the straw in the brim, but the brim is much easier to clean and much less likely a spot for cracking to occur. See our section on cleaning hats above for more info. Be sure to store your hat either in the box that you bought it in or in a spot that is away from sunlight. Never store a hat on its brim as this will affect the block. If you wear a summer and a winter hat and know that you won't wear a straw hat for some months during the winter, store it. Don't let the dust get to it.



What about when the hat is already misshaped or just not quite where you want it? Use a tea kettle to get the shape that you like on your brim. Just hold the hat over the steam for a few seconds and try and rework the brim with your hands. It only takes a little steam to loosen the straw so go slow. Be sure not to hold the hat so close you harm the hat or your hands. A little steam goes a long way and is what we use ourselves if we want our own hats to shape just the way we like them.


1940's Fur Felt Fedora with wide brim and tall crown Grey with Black Grosgrain.

Felt Hats
1950's Borsalino Fine Fur Black Felt Homburg
A felt hat is made to keep you dry and keep the sun off you. Use the same steam techniques described above to get the hat to the shape that you like. Some felts do much better in rain than others. Some on our website already have a waterproof spray applied, while with others this might affect the colour. If you have any questions about which materials are best and worst for weather, call or email us.

Though most felts are meant to hold up in weather almost all hats have a saturation point where they will finally soak through. If you get caught in a heavy rain and the hat gets soaked through be sure to let the hat dry completely. Leave it out over night somewhere in your home where it can dry thoroughly. Never use a hair dryer, and never store a wet hat. Hair dryers cause wrinkles and affect the felt. Leaving a wet hat in a small box is just like leaving any other wet clothing in a small box, it will get moldy.




Stains are almost inevitable with hats. Like all apparel, sweat and grime will eventually work their way into all hats. If you love an old hat and the techniques provided above don't help, there are some places that can clean, block and restore hats. It can cost quite a bit, maybe more than the hat was worth. But if you really like the hat, it has a history or some sentimental value; this is your best option.


We at Village Hats hope that this info is helpful. We have come up with this from 15 plus years of selling hats, and in no way claim to be the authority on hat cleaning. Please realise that we are not hat cleaners, blockers or restorers. We just want to provide our customers with tips that we have discovered over the years to help them enjoy their hats for as long as possible. Have fun.

*This article was excerpted from: http://www.hatsandcaps.co.uk/Hat-Care-Ahat_care/ 


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