Saturday, May 4, 2013

THE SIMPLE ELEGANCE OF SUMMER WHITE


"VIVE LA VIE ELEGANT!"

One of the things I look forward to are the many stylish white parties that are coming up this season.  Hopefully after man hours of careful preparation they will all be long remembered as evenings of unmistakable, landmark handsomeness...  Many gentlemen have already put their tailors to work, others patiently shop to find just the perfect apparel for a splendid night of style.  Like you, it is the heart and spirit of gentlemanly style that I enjoy celebrating and all the more gracious when done for a good cause.



As a young collegian I remember musing over the upcoming promise of spring and summer with one of my  buddies, we romanticized ourselves living as artists in Paris, London, Brussels, Cairo and other exotic cities around the 1890's clad only in white linen suits.   We'd  talk for hours at a busy cafe writing and painting by night... or sketching in some smokey burlesque or after-hours venue.  Victorian men always wore white linen suits when on holiday in the warm, exotic places of the globe.  Wearing white is like exploring a new world. There are rules and then there are also so many chances to digress with color, texture and silhouette.  I hope you are as excited as I am about the long warm days of summer clothed in white in the tradition of so many gentlemen before...

"VIVE L'AMOUR DU STYLE!"

 

Written by D. Vollin

Saturday, April 13, 2013

WHAT IS THE PROPER TIME FOR MEN TO WEAR SPRING AND SUMMER HATS AND CLOTHES?


WHAT IS THE PROPER TIME FOR MEN TO WEAR SPRING AND SUMMER HATS AND CLOTHES?



After a long cold winter a gentleman is eager put his fine beaver and fur felt hats away for the upcoming spring and summer months.  Like me, you may have been shopping for new summer hats a full month before spring and Easter arrive.  Uppermost on the minds of many men is the singular question, “When Is It Appropriate To Begin Wearing Warm Weather Hats And Clothes”?  The answer is that it is generally a matter of preference but warm weather clothes should be featured beginning with the first day of spring, at Easter or beginning with Memorial Day.   



In those regions of the world where the winter cold may still be lingering making it impractical to dress for warm weather the best rule is to dress for the weather.  Being a slave to the dictates of fashion is a poor epitaph even for the fashion forward who might otherwise have lived many long years to make the landscape decidedly more handsomely stylish.  Fashion is not intended to be a thing we die for, or as will more likely be the case, to get sick over, it is all about living as comfortably and stylishly as we can.  That being said, it is my opinion that we gentlemen have four options from which to pick, the three mentioned previously and the fourth which is the common sense answer; “when the weather is accommodating for warm weather apparel”.  More than likely it will be these first three; Spring, Easter or Memorial Day. 



The least conservative window for wearing straw, silk or other warm weather hats and attire is at The Vernal Equinox on the first day of spring typically in mid-April.  Virtually every place in North America located above the 35th parallel north will be experiencing winter-like weather at the beginning of spring, hence the origin of the All American, “Spring Break”.  The obvious question is, “If spring is the first day that one should wear spring and summer hats is it the first day one can shift to spring and summer clothing”?  It is my opinion that one should not wear one without the other.  There may be some leakage of suede or fine fur hats with a short, sueded finish with spring apparel but the heavy winter chapeau’s must be left behind once the linen, cotton and other warm weather fabrics are pulled out of the trunk.    Most places above the 55rd Parallel North Latitude will be experiencing anything but warm weather at the vernal equinox.



A more conservative window for wearing straw hats and warm weather attire opens on Easter Sunday in late March.  We all remember the pastel coloured suits we donned on Easter day they are still as vivid as if we were reminiscing through our old family photograph album?  Easter is a splendid time to inaugurate our warm weather apparel, launching the season’s fashions for the next 5 to six months of stylistic interpretation.  Easter is a time that even the most conservative men can agree upon even though we often revert to our winter garb on the Monday morning following Easter Sunday. 



The most conservative window for wearing warm weather apparel including hats and other fabrics opens on Memorial Day toward the end of May.  Victorians considered it to be improper to wear white before for Memorial Day.  Fortunately we are no longer living in the world of the Victorians.  Memorial Day is a perfectly fine time to begin wearing warm weather clothes but with the rapidly changing climate we have been experiencing in the first quarter of the century the early warming trend may make it impractical to continue wearing heavy winter garments in order to keep an old tradition going. 



As with most things we must take such rules, traditions and conventions with a grain or two of salt.  I only recently found myself discussing this topic with one of the proprietors of Andrea’s Fine Hats and she mentioned that they begin to get calls before and around spring asking when it is proper to wear straw hats.  My best advice is to use your own best discretion.  If we experience an unseasonable early warming trend it is wise to dress for the weather.  It is perfectly fine to wear a spring suit for Easter Sunday and then go back to winter clothing the next day if the weather is still very wintry. 



Whatever he does a gentleman should attempt to be as appropriate as he can.  A gentleman will never criticize or debase anyone based on their choice of clothing or timing of said choice even in the most discrete company; he must be completely tolerant of another gentleman’s freedom of choice even though it does not mirror his own.  A gentleman never says or implies anything that might hurt or insult another gentleman as it is his duty to model the utmost of tolerance.  A gentleman understands that clothing is a circumstantial factor and far more important is the dignity of human being wearing them.  We never know why a person wears what they wear; it could be due to poverty or a billion other variables we do not have the ability to understand or the power to change. Therefore, a gentleman must show great restraint so as not to make judgment on the way another person is clothed unless they are a client of his and he is a clothier or as a matter of profession he is engaged to deliver his critique of some specific apparel.  So a gentleman should not judge another person based on their clothes, he should evaluate them against their deeds.



Whatever time you determine is the appropriate moment for you to begin wearing warm weather hats and apparel I implore you to have fun with them.  Always dress for your own pleasure.  Be creative and confident in your personal sense of style…



Written By: David Vollin
BIGDADDYBLUES VINTAGE HABERDASHER
VISIT US ON FACEBOOK AT:  Bigdaddyblues Vintage Haberdasher  

Monday, February 18, 2013

A WELL HATTED EVENING…





A WELL HATTED EVENING…

This weekend I visited one of the local legends for men’s hats, Andrea’s Fine Hats located at 7825 Eastern Avenue Silver Spring Maryland 20920.  Every time I visit I walk away with another wonderful hat to add to my collection but there is something else I take away with me as I bid the ladies farewell, a sense of family and community.  Whilst shopping at Andrea’s we actually take time to talk.  As customers come in and before they depart all contribute their two-cents in the pleasant conversation.  There is a small bench right at the door where the ladies sit offering expert opinions and critique as I try each hat on.  I know they will give me an honest opinion and in between our conversations remind me of a time when things were much more genteel…

 

I strongly recommend a visit to Andrea's Fine Hats and here is the store number, please call to get the hours and try to get there early enough to take your time and have some old fashioned conversation.  The store number is 301-565-5009 and the web-address is:  http://www.finehats.com/ .  As Andrea herself says, drop on by and get some “Hattitude”!

 

Written by D. Vollin



Friday, December 7, 2012

A DAY OF CLASSIC COATS...

It was Friday and I needed some creative inspiration to make it through... so where else could I turn but to my carefully collected vintage closet to clothe the day in something extraordinarily special... so as I left the long hallway to the outside I was clothed in style... No matter what the day had in store for me I was prepared... looking and feeling good are half the battle... Now I see that many men have stopped wearing the raincoat... or topcoat... I see a few business men wearing them faithfully but of late I have also seen some young men sporting them with jeans, slacks, corduroys giving an upscale look to what might otherwise be a mundane ensemble...

Later in the evening I chose a favorite of mine, a wool and faux fur greatcoat... I love the chunky collar of this  greatcoat... and I chose a new Cossack hat to accessorize it... Yes, I had plenty of vintage Cossack hats but somehow this one was the item that I pulled from the hat rack in my closet... 

Besides being wonderfully functional, a well designed topcoat or greatcoat can also be a stylish way of keeping out the winter cold.  In damp climates like the Mid-Atlantic region of the East Coast you just have to have something between you and the frigid humidity... 

Modern topcoats and greatcoats have more features for storage and such, the vintage models are more functional in that they protect you from the elements.  I never like to clutter the drape of a graciously cut coat with keys, gloves, and other such necessities... personally if at all possible I travel as lightly as possible especially when heading out on the town...


When accessorizing a coat it is most important to pull details from the fabric, buttons, collar, etc., in order to pull it together with the rest of the outfit.  Personally I love clean uncomplicated lines, a generous collar that goes well with the brim of my hat...

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Sunday, December 2, 2012

VINTAGE TIES REFRESH THE MODERN DILEMMA OF FASHION UBIQUITY...





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I'VE ALWAYS BEEN A VINTAGE TIE AESTHETE... ABOVE I AM WEARING A 5 IN. WIDE BURGUNDY KNIT TIE CIRCA 1973. I LOVE 70'S TIES, ESPECIALLY THE DOUBLE-KNIT, DACRON POLYESTER ONES BECAUSE THEY KNOT SO WELL AND HOLD THEIR SHAPE MUCH BETTER THAN NATURAL FIBERS... THE OVAL "REPUSSE" PATTERN WENT SO WELL WITH THE ONE ON MY SHIRT I KNEW THEY WERE MADE TO BE WORN TOGETHER... ALTHOUGH NEARLY 30 YEARS LAY BETWEEN THEM...

BELOW ARE SOME STUNNING VINTAGE TIES THAT CAN ADD NEW VIBRANCY TO ANY MANS WARDROBE.  PLEASE INQUIRE ABOUT THESE OR ANY OTHER APPAREL AT: 

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3 Fine Silk Ties
The average gentleman shops at the same stores every other man shops at.  This can mean only one thing, look alike syndrome... What truly sets a gentleman apart from every other man is the uniqueness of his wardrobe.  But in a modern market of mass produced fashion virtually everything that can be bought ready to wear is ubiquitous... generic... 
Surely every man has the ability to give apparel a personal touch setting it apart from the next one but fine vintage clothing is one of a kind, you'll never see it on another man unless you are looking in a mirror...



Many vintage patterns are resurfacing today in virtually every designer collection.  As quiet as it is kept as early on as the early 1990's fashion houses like Dolce and Gabbana and Kenneth Cole started copying simple men's clothing from the late 1950's to the early 1970's including the flat front, the peg leg the tailored blazer and shirt and narrower collar.  When I first started seeing their clothing in fashion magazines I thought I was looking through the racks of a thrift store with exceptionally good vintage buys.  These classics had already been made all they had to do was copy them and add a few personal touches updated fabrics etc.  But it is so much nicer to have the one of a kind original than pay for a copy worn by hundreds of thousands of men.  For a man of distinction vintage is the clear choice.  
4 in. 1970's Tie with exploded plaid pattern



Two heavy 4 in. Polyester Damasks at the ends and a fine woven stripe and  foulard  middle.








A hansome foulard with a fade-away stipe typical of 1970's cravats.









3 pristine skinny 1950's cravats.